上週我們向您展示瞭如何將彩色照片轉換為黑白照片。雖然我們與您分享的技巧和竅門產生了驚人的效果,但本週我們將再次強調一些強大的技術,以將您的影象提升到下一個層次。
如果你是一個新的逆向工程現代數碼相機照片成黑白的,我們建議檢查一下以前的教程,如何將您的彩色照片轉換成驚人的黑白列印,首先。在該教程的簡介中,我們將介紹使用高階照片編輯技術來建立優秀黑白照片的主要動機。
透過以下更先進的技巧,我們已經為本教程的電池一起,然而,你將能夠採取你的黑白照片到下一個層次。你可能不會把你拍的每一張照片都編輯到這種程度,但是對於那些你真的想在掛在牆上之前進行按摩、操作或增強的照片,這些技術可以為影象新增恰到好處的彈出效果。
就像我們之前的照片教程一樣,您需要兩個基本的東西:
Curves are possibly the most underused tool in the Photoshop arsenal, and they’re the heart of our tutorial today. Many people are put off of using them because they are not particularly intuitive and there are so many other tools available which are a bit easier to grasp out of the gate.
Unlike Levels, where the adjustments you make are applied uniformly across the image, the Curves are applied more granularly, which makes it much easier for you, the editor, to make very subtle changes to the image. If you want deeper shadows, brighter whites, or to isolate a particular shade of blue (now gray) in the sky framed in your photo, for example, you can do so with the Curves tool.
In the image above, you can see both the base photo and the unadjusted Curves readout of the image. Notice how the line from the lower left to the upper right is a nice clean, straight, diagonal line; our Curves, in other words, are pretty flat. The curves can seem a bit abstract, so let’s pick a spot on our photo and see where it falls on the curve. We’re going to click on the white side of the cup to sample that spot. Note: If you just click a spot and hold it, it will show you the spot on the curve, but if you hold CTRL and click it then there will be a permanent mark on the curve line:
Now, let’s look at that little black dot on that curve. Follow it with your eyes to the left gradient bar, and then follow it with your eyes down to the bottom gradient bar. That dot represents the slightly gray, almost white, value of the cup in the photo.
Because the curve is unadjusted, the input (the lower gradient bar) matches the output (the left-hand gradient bar). If we were to grab that little marker on the curve and pull it down it would darken the value, and if were to raise it then it would lighten the value. Let’s take a look at what happens when we do that in the next section of the tutorial.
The values for that particular tone as well as the entire curve have been changed. The previously slightly gray cup is now shockingly white and the highlights on the chrome of the espresso machine are much brighter (as is the rest of the image). There are some nice subtle changes to the image, such as in the reflecti***, and the shape of the Bakelite handle of the espresso portafilter is significantly better defined against the background now. It’s not a bad looking little image, and it’s a lot more visually interesting now than it was before.
What if we went the opposite route, though? What if we dropped the value way down instead of spiking it way up?
We couldn’t drop it all the way down because that would turn the picture almost completely black. Instead, we dropped it significantly below the starting line (the light gray line indicating the original baseline curve). You can see how it significantly darkens the photo and turns what was a bright coffee shop photo into something moodier. Clearly, the end result is a bit on the underexposed side, but we wanted you to see how dramatically a fairly **all adjustment in the curve could change things.
Now that we’ve played with a single point on the curve and seen how it affects everything, let’s reset the curve. Hold down the ALT key and the “Cancel” button in the Curves box will turn into “Reset”. Click to reset the curve back to the state it was in when you opened the menu.
Let’s see what happens when we add more points to the curve. Go ahead and repeat the process we performed above to select one the lightest points in your photo (like our espresso cup) and then pick darkest point using the same technique. You’ll end up with a dot for the light and a dot for the dark on your curve.
This is where things get fun. We’ve just made an anchor point for the darkest and lightest parts of our image, Let’s get a little crazy with everything in between. Use the dropper tool to pick any portion of the image you’d like to adjust (or, since we’re being playful, just grab any point on the line) and make an adjustment. If you like it, leave it. If you don’t like it, slide it back into place. Feel free to tug and pull the curve as you see fit to create the image you’re looking for. After a moment or two of playing this is what we came up with:
You can see how, in playing with the curves, it’s possible to capture elements of our earlier two example images. We liked the brightness of the cup but we also liked rich moody shadows. A little fiddling with the curves let us bottom out some of the shadows, spike the intensity of the highlights, and enjoy the best of both.
Now that we’ve looked at manual curve adjustments, let’s look at the Curve presets.
We recommend manually playing with the Curves tool for a while until you get a real sense of how changing the curve changes your images. Once you’ve done that, however, you’ll likely find it invaluable to call on the Curve tool presets.
For example, in the last image of the previous section of the tutorial, we arrived at a pretty high-contrast image. The whites and highlights were fairly bright and the shadows were quite rich. Since we’ve established that we like high contrast images, the next time we go to use the Curves tool, we can pre-seed our image curve by selecting “Strong Contrast”. Let’s look at the curve it gives us for that preset:
The preset is essentially the curve we had in our prior image (except a bit **oother as it doesn’t have the extra pull on the highlights and lowlights that we put in). You can see how using the presents to jump in the direction you want to go and then finishing the job by making subtle changes to the existing curve is a much faster way to achieve the results you want than reinventing the wheel.
If you were worried that we had run out of fun tricks in the Curves menu, well, worry no more. We have another handy little trick to help you manipulate the curves and further enhance your black and white images. There’s a big part of the Curves menu pane we haven’t even talked about yet, and that’s the black, gray, and white adjustment droppers at the bottom of the pane.
Our work with black and white images makes these tools even more relevant. When we want to create high contrast images and really capture the crispness common in old black and white photos, it’s so easy to do so with a quick manipulation of the black, gray, and white points. Click on each one and select the darkest point in the image, a mid-tone gray point, and the whitest point in the image:
From here you can manipulate the curve and apply presets just like you did in the previous two steps of the tutorial.
Although many people are put off by the complexity of the Curves tool, we hope after a little tinkering you have seen how the extra effort is worth the time and yields really fantastic images.
Have a tip or trick to make convert photos to black and white and make them pop? Join in the conversation below.
... 我們的第一種眼睛增強方法是在主影象的頂部設定四個調整層。因為這是一個非破壞性的工作流程,所以我們可以隨時返回Photoshop檔案,以便在需要時進行額外的調整。 ...
...盡可能少的時間來獲得你所選擇的確切顏色質量。我們將調整以下影象,使用尼康D3200數碼單反相機拍攝。 ...
Photoshop是一個很好的編輯影象的工具——我們是這裡的超級粉絲,這已經不是什麼祕密了。我們之前已經介紹瞭如何設計一個簡單的logo,以及如何修復過度曝光的照片,所以一旦掌握了基本知識,自動化是下一個合乎邏輯的步...
... 新增一個黑白調整層到影象和調整滑塊,直到你有一個轉換你喜歡。我們將在下一步處理對比度,所以不要在這上面花費太多時間。 ...
...古照片興起的失敗也提出了同樣的觀點。在數字時代,任何用位元和位元組**的東西都是豐富的。任何具有物質性的東西都變得越來越少,因此也變得很有價值。但是那些生存下來的物理事物(比如電影照片)常常是有原因的。...